Saltos del Nilahue, nr. Pucon, Chile

Last drop in the kayaks before leaving Chile. We parked, we saw, we hucked.. 60ft (only half is free... falling though). It used to be a double drop apparently! Click here

Shots by Jonathan Blum

Rio Baker, South America's biggest river, three gorges decent.

Here the roads are made from dust and the rivers run through deep valleys, like arteries for the living. Two days south of the Futa, but still considered as northern patagonia, the Rio Baker drains a huge catchment of the Andes. Three sections fo whitewater along the river, carry an average 2000cumecs (60,000CFS) through three gorges, all of which can be accessed from a valley side road, constructed just over ten years ago. Still a rarely paddled river, because of its sheer power, this river's character is one that it is too big for it's walls. All along the run there are magic carpets appearing and moving somewhere else, seams and eddylines that can fold you to places you don't want to go and static water features waiting for mistakes. Unfortunately the lower gorge is set to be dammed very soon, the surveyers have already been in and left their stakes, so time is running out. Would I want to go back to paddle it again? after it being some of the hairest boating I've ever done? on the right day maybe, - still I'd like to have the choice to.

Me, Tom, Ben and Jonathan - 'Welcome to the Rio Baker'

Tom inspecting the portage/sneak at the start

Jonathan taking in the 2nd rapid

.. and the third

Tom, Ben and myself approaching the 2nd, 'on the left, ... left, ... left....'

Run out of the 2nd, author seeing what's beneath

Author not being where he wants to be! the diagonal's risen up once more



3rd, 'centre right to left..., ... right to left, ri ... left ... '



Rapids 3 and 4 of 6 in the lower canyon.

The living emerald gem

1st on the 3rd Gorge

' 'orrible spikey things' ... and men wearing tights

Water shots by Jonathan Blum

Rio Futaleufu, the gem in the Chileano crown.

Split into three sections, the rio works it's way down a pristine valley that has been home to some of the biggest river tourist outfits in Chile for the last 20years, not forgetting all the travelling kayakers. It still has a feel of adventure, for if you want to stay in Chile getting there, there is a ferry journey to do where there is no road. Plus there's no fuel in the valley. This highlights that the natural riches for the the local community and tourist businesses must be so good, that this isolation doesn't bother them. First the dams and now a gold mine threaten the valley, which whilst materistically are good for a country, will not support the local people - they don't need the gold anymore than the electricity, which was meant for industry over the Argentinian border. To ruin one unique valley, and disrupt so many local and visiting tourists every year, the question has to be asked, "why here?".

Overnight ferry to the Futalefu valley

Inferno canyon (upper Futaleufu), Entrada rapid, average flows

Phil and Ben

Go between the two big hits, dynamite rapid on the upper futa.

Get your sheep and eat it, chileano style!